Valdres vs Hemsedal — where should you cycle?
Comparison of Valdres and Hemsedal as cycling destinations: gravel, MTB, family routes, season and practical info.
Should I cycle in Valdres or Hemsedal?
Hemsedal is a compact mountain village with flow trails and bike paths in the ski area — ideal for a short MTB weekend. Valdres covers 13 areas with over 360 routes, Mjølkevegen (250 km) and everything from gravel to road cycling and family rides. Want gravity and bike park: Hemsedal. Want variety and multi-day tours: Valdres.
Two different offerings
Hemsedal and Valdres are both located in mountain Norway, less than three hours from Oslo. But they offer very different cycling. Hemsedal is a compact ski resort that opens terrain and trails for MTB in summer — with flow trails, trail biking and guided tours from a central starting point. Valdres is an entire region with 13 cycling areas, 360+ marked routes and everything from mountain pasture roads to mountain passes.
The choice depends on what you're looking for and how many days you have.
MTB and trail riding
Hemsedal: Offers flow trails and trail biking in the mountain terrain around the ski centre. Guided bike tours and cycling courses make it accessible for beginners who want to try off-road. Compact area where you can ride multiple trails in a short time without long transport between trailheads.
Valdres: Beitostølen Trail Arena has marked MTB trails in varied terrain. Bitihorn offers technical trail riding up to 1607 m altitude. Nearly 70 MTB routes spread across the entire region — from easy forest trails in Etnedal to challenging high-mountain terrain at Jotunheimen-kanten.
Winner: Hemsedal for flow trails and a compact bike park feel. Valdres for longer nature trails and more terrain variety.
Gravel and long-distance
Valdres: Home of Mjølkevegen, Norway's most famous gravel route — 250 km of marked gravel road through mountain pasture landscape. Over 140 gravel routes spread across 13 areas. Mountain pasture roads, dairy roads and old mountain roads provide the most complete gravel offering in Southern Norway.
Hemsedal: Has gravel roads and forest roads in the valley, but gravel is not the main focus. Hemsedal works better as an MTB stop than as a base for multi-day gravel touring. Proximity to Hallingdal provides some options, but no connected long-distance route.
Winner: Valdres — gravel is the core offering with over 140 routes and Mjølkevegen as the flagship.
Road cycling
Valdres: Valdresflya is an iconic mountain pass — Rv51 up to 1389 m altitude with Jotunheimen as panorama. Panoramavegen offers 1100 metres above sea level. Over 80 road cycling routes from quiet valley roads to the toughest climbs.
Hemsedal: The main road through Hemsedal follows the valley, with moderate climbs. Suitable for relaxed road cycling, but lacks the major mountain passes that define alpine road cycling. Not a primary destination for dedicated road cyclists.
Winner: Valdres — mountain passes, variety and iconic climbs.
Family cycling
Valdres: Over 70 family routes along quiet gravel roads and pasture roads without car traffic. Valdresbanen cycle path is flat and safe. Family-friendly stages along Mjølkevegen with short distances between stops.
Hemsedal: Offers cycling courses and adapted trails for children connected to the ski area. Compact format means short distance between activities, accommodation and dining — practical for families with young children who need proximity.
Winner: Valdres for peaceful day trips and long time on the bike. Hemsedal for short sessions combined with other activities.
The Rallarvegen connection
Hemsedal is located in the Hallingdal region, with a connection to Rallarvegen — perhaps Norway's most famous cycling route between Haugastøl and Flåm. But Rallarvegen is not in Hemsedal — it's a separate trip from Haugastøl (over an hour by car from Hemsedal centre). Compare instead with Mjølkevegen vs Rallarvegen to choose between the two long-distance routes.
Practical comparison
Who should choose what?
Choose Hemsedal if you:
- Want flow trails and trail biking in a compact format
- Are planning a short MTB weekend with everything in one place
- Are a terrain beginner who wants cycling courses
- Are combining cycling with other mountain activities (rafting, climbing, hiking)
Choose Valdres if you:
- Want gravel or bikepacking over several days
- Are planning a cycling holiday with varied terrain and many areas
- Are travelling with family and want many car-free alternatives
- Dream of mountain passes like Valdresflya or Mjølkevegen
- Want to combine cycling with mountain pasture visits, fishing or cultural experiences
Can you combine both?
Hemsedal and Valdres are about two hours apart by car (via Gol and Rv52). A week-long cycling trip can combine both: three days gravel in Valdres, move your base to Hemsedal for two days of flow trails. Golsfjellet in Valdres is the closest part and works as a bridge between the regions — from here it's a short drive to Gol and on to Hemsedal.
Accommodation and base choice
Hemsedal is a concentrated ski resort with accommodation clustered around the centre and ski lifts. Hotels, apartments, and cabins are close together — short distance from bed to trail. The advantage is simple logistics: everything in one place. The downside is that prices reflect an established alpine destination, especially in high season.
Valdres has accommodation spread across the entire region. Radisson Blu Resort Beitostølen serves as a mountain hotel base, Fagernes has budget hotels and campsites, and along Mjølkevegen you'll find mountain lodges like Ruten, Beitostølen, and Golsfjellet with simple lodging and traditional dairy farm food. Wild camping via the right to roam is free throughout the region.
Training effect — what gives you more?
This question is relevant for cyclists planning training camps or focused cycling weekends.
Hemsedal offers intensive, repeatable training. Short trails you can ride multiple times. Flow trails build technique quickly. Good for MTB-specific strength and handling — but limited endurance training due to short distances.
Valdres offers volume training and endurance. Valdresflya alone is 22 km with 1020 m elevation — one climb equivalent to an entire training day. Mjølkevegen builds base fitness over several days. Panoramavegen offers interval climbs. The combination of mountain passes, valley roads, and gravel provides varied training without repeating the same route.
For cycling clubs: Valdres works better as a training camp base because you can plan 5–7 days with completely different routes and loads. Hemsedal works better for a technique weekend focused on MTB skills.
Summary
Hemsedal and Valdres are not competitors — they're complementary. Hemsedal gives you a compact MTB and flow trail experience in one valley. Valdres gives you Norway's most versatile cycling region with 13 areas and hundreds of routes.
Short and intense? Hemsedal. Long and varied? Valdres. Both are worth the trip.