Valdres vs Hallingdal — where should you cycle?

Should I cycle in Valdres or Hallingdal?

Valdres has the largest route network for gravel and MTB, with Mjølkevegen (250 km), Beitostølen Trail Arena and over 100 marked routes. Hallingdal has Rallarvegen (82 km, Haugastøl–Flåm) and a well-developed road cycling scene around Geilo. In short: Valdres for gravel, mountain farm culture and variety — Hallingdal for Rallarvegen and shorter stays around Geilo.

The question comes up every year when summer cycling trips are being planned: Valdres or Hallingdal? Both regions are 3–4 hours' drive from Oslo, both have mountains, gravel and fresh air. But they are surprisingly different for cyclists.

Here is an honest comparison — what each region does best, and who should choose what.

Terrain and route offering

Valdres

Valdres stretches from the valleys in the south (Sør-Aurdal, 200 m above sea level) to the high mountains in the north (Valdresflya, 1389 m above sea level). This gives enormous variety over short distances.

100+ marked cycling routes in the route overview — gravel, road, MTB and family routes
Mjølkevegen (250 km, national cycling route no. 5) — Norway's most well-known gravel route
Beitostølen Trail Arena — dedicated MTB facility with marked trails
Valdresflya — iconic mountain crossing by road (1389 m above sea level)
Mountain farm tracks everywhere — hundreds of kilometres of gravel through active summer farming land

Valdres' strength is its breadth. You can cycle a flat family route along Slidrefjorden in the morning and demanding gravel over Stølsvidda in the afternoon.

Hallingdal

Hallingdal is narrower in route selection, but has one absolute trophy ride:

Rallarvegen (82 km, Haugastøl–Flåm) — historic construction road from the Bergen Railway building, mostly downhill
The Geilo area — short and medium MTB routes at the ski resort
Golsfjellet — gravel and mountain farm tracks (shared with Valdres' southern part)
Hallingdalsløypa — road cycling in the valley

Hallingdal invests heavily in Rallarvegen, which deserves its reputation. But outside that one route, the offering is thinner than in Valdres.

Gravel

For gravel cyclists, Valdres is clearly the larger option. Mjølkevegen alone is three times longer than Rallarvegen, and you have hundreds of kilometres of mountain farm tracks on top of that. Stølsvidda, Jotunheimvegen and Panoramavegen provide week-long gravel holidays without cycling the same road twice.

Rallarvegen is in turn a one-of-a-kind experience — you cycle along the Bergen Railway over Hardangervidda and down to Flåm with dramatic elevation drop. It's one day, and it's spectacular. But that's exactly it: one ride.

Want several days of gravel? → Valdres Want one unforgettable day ride? → Rallarvegen

MTB and off-road cycling

Valdres has Beitostølen Trail Arena with marked trails in multiple difficulty levels, plus forest trails in Fagernes, Etnedal and Sør-Aurdal.

Hallingdal has Geilo with MTB trails at the ski resort — well facilitated with lift access in summer. For pure lift-assisted MTB, Geilo is a strong alternative.

Want natural trails and variety? → Valdres Want lift-assisted trail riding? → Geilo in Hallingdal

Road cycling

Valdresflya (rv. 51, 1389 m above sea level) is Valdres' major road cycling climb — 22 km ascent from Garli with Jotunheimen as backdrop. Panoramavegen and Slettefjellrunden provide solid alternatives.

Hallingdal has rv. 7 over Hardangervidda — long and exposed, but with heavy traffic. The Geilo area has shorter road cycling loops in calm terrain.

For pure road cyclists, both regions are moderate — neither Valdres nor Hallingdal is primarily a road cycling destination. But Valdresflya is a climb worth the journey on its own.

Family and beginners

Valdres has 20+ family routes with flat profiles along lakes and rivers. Aurdal familierunde (12 km), Lauvsjø rundt (5 km) and Valdresbanen sykkelvei are perfect for children.

Hallingdal has family-friendly routes around Gol and along Hallingdalselva, but fewer dedicated family routes.

For families: Both work, but Valdres has the largest selection of short, safe routes specifically designed for children.

Transport from Oslo

Hallingdal wins on train connections — the Bergen Line stops right in Geilo and Gol. For Valdres you need to take a bus from Oslo or drive yourself. See our transport guide for all options.

Accommodation

Both regions have a good selection. Valdres has everything from mountain lodges along Mjølkevegen to hotels in Fagernes and Beitostølen. Hallingdal has Geilo as an established tourist town with many hotels.

For bikepacking with a tent, Valdres' mountain farm landscape is ideal — you find quiet campsites along gravel roads everywhere. The right to roam applies in both places.

Season

Valdres has a longer season because the valley routes in Sør-Aurdal and Etnedal are snow-free already in April. Hallingdal lies generally higher, and Rallarvegen rarely opens before July.

Summary — who should choose what?

Choose Valdres if you:

Want several days of gravel (Mjølkevegen, Stølsvidda, Panoramavegen)
Are travelling with family and need many routes at different levels
Want to combine cycling with mountain farm visits, stave churches and hiking
Prefer quiet gravel roads with little traffic
Are planning a cycling weekend or longer cycling holiday

Choose Hallingdal if you:

Want to cycle Rallarvegen (it's worth it)
Prefer lift-assisted MTB in Geilo
Want to take the train from Oslo with your bike
Are planning a short trip (1–2 days) around one destination

Or do both: Mjølkevegen ends at Golsfjellet — which is the start of Hallingdal. Cycle Mjølkevegen from Vinstra to Gol, take the train to Haugastøl, and cycle Rallarvegen down to Flåm. Two weeks, two regions, zero repetition.

Weather differences — wind, precipitation and microclimate

Valdres and Hallingdal are both in the Innlandet region, but terrain and topography create noticeable weather differences that affect the cycling experience.

Practical significance: Valdres' lower valley floor (360 m asl in Fagernes vs. 800 m asl in Geilo) makes valley route cycling noticeably warmer. You can cycle in a t-shirt along Slidrefjorden while Geilo cyclists need a windbreaker. Above the tree line things even out — both regions are exposed and weather-dependent.

Hallingdal's western side (Hol, Ål) receives more precipitation because moist air from the west coast is pushed over Hardangervidda. Valdres lies more sheltered behind Jotunheimen. For cyclists who want stable conditions, Valdres is statistically safer — but check yr.no regardless.

Rain tactics: In Valdres you have valley routes below the tree line that work in light rain. In Hallingdal the alternatives are fewer because the valley floor already lies at altitude.

The combination trip: Valdres + Hallingdal in one week

The ultimate cycling holiday in southern Norway combines both regions. Here is a concrete 7-day plan — gravel, road cycling and one trophy ride.

Logistics tips:

Bergen Line from Gol to Haugastøl takes 1 hour — bike in the luggage van, book space in advance
Flåmsbana Flåm → Myrdal takes 1 hour — connect to the Bergen Line home
Alternative: leave your car in Fagernes on day 1, take the train all the way back and collect it afterwards
Total cycling: approx. 270–300 km over 6 active days — manageable for recreational cyclists with an e-bike

Accommodation along the route: Mountain lodges on Mjølkevegen days 2–3, hotel in Gol days 4–5, Flåm day 6. Book mountain lodges at least 2–3 weeks in advance in July–August.

This route gives you the best of both worlds: Mjølkevegen's mountain farm culture and gravel roads, Panoramavegen's views, and Rallarvegen as the grand finale down to the Sognefjord. Few cycling holidays in Norway can match this combination.

Last updated March 2026. All facts are sourced from official sources and personal experience.