Sør-Aurdal Cycling Guide — Bagn, Reinli and Hedalen

Sør-Aurdal is Valdres' answer to the place nobody wrote about in the brochure. There are no ski lifts, no trail arenas, no Instagrammable mountain summits with queues. Instead: quiet gravel roads through cultural landscapes, two medieval stave churches, and Norway's last bear forest just a few pedal strokes away.

Why Sør-Aurdal?

Most people planning a cycling trip in Valdres drive straight past Bagn on their way north towards Beitostølen or Fagernes. That's a mistake. Sør-Aurdal has something the rest of Valdres can't match:

• Longest season in Valdres — lower elevation means snow-free from April to November
• Shortest drive from Oslo — 1.5 hours via Rv35 from Hønefoss, no mountain passes
• Minimal car traffic — village roads and forest tracks with almost no cars
• Two stave churches — Reinli (c. 1200) and Hedalen (11th century) along the cycling routes
• Vassfaret — wilderness with a bear heritage, accessible by gravel

The Five Routes — From Easy to Challenging

1. Hølervassrunden — 18 km, easy

The easiest route in all of Valdres. Flat forest gravel along Hølervass with only 100 m elevation gain. Children from age 7–8 can handle it easily. Start and finish in Bagn town centre.

Time: 1.5–2.5 hours Surface: Gravel and forest road Perfect for: Families, beginners, relaxed half-day trips

→ See Hølervassrunden

2. Bagn–Reinli Loop — 24 km, easy

Village roads through cultural landscape from Bagn to Reinli stave church and back. 200 m elevation gain — gently rolling and never steep. Reinli stave church from c. 1200 is open for visits in summer and worth a stop.

Time: 1.5–2.5 hours Surface: Gravel and village road (80%), tarmac (20%) Perfect for: Culture enthusiasts, relaxed day trips, couples

→ See Bagn–Reinli Loop

3. Nordre Fjellstølrunden — 28 km, moderate

From Tisleidalen up to the mountain summer farms — 560 m through varied terrain between dense forest and open mountain sections. Summer farm landscape that has barely changed. Bring food — no refreshments along the route.

Time: 3–4 hours Surface: Gravel and forest road (90%), tarmac (10%) Perfect for: Gravel enthusiasts, photography lovers

→ See Nordre Fjellstølrunden

4. Bjødalsrunden — 36 km, challenging

The longest and toughest route in Sør-Aurdal. 720 m through Bjødalen with technical sections and wet ground. Requires a robust gravel bike or MTB and good fitness. The reward: total silence and views you have entirely to yourself.

Time: 4–6 hours Surface: Gravel and forest road (80%), technical trail (20%) Perfect for: Experienced gravel riders, adventurers

→ See Bjødalsrunden

5. Hedalen–Vassfaret — 38 km, moderate

Gravel ride from Hedalen stave church into Vassfaret — Norway's last bear stronghold. Old forest roads through dense spruce forest and along quiet lakes. A wilderness feeling without leaving Valdres.

Time: 3–4.5 hours Surface: Gravel (70%), forest road (20%), tarmac (10%) Perfect for: Nature lovers, those who want wilderness close to civilisation

→ See Hedalen–Vassfaret

Base Guide — Bagn as Your Starting Point

Bagn is the municipality centre of Sør-Aurdal and a natural starting point. Here you'll find what you need for a day or two on the bike:

Spring and Autumn — Sør-Aurdal's Hidden Seasonal Advantage

Most Valdres guides focus on July and August. In Sør-Aurdal the calculation is different. Lower elevation — Bagn sits at 200 m above sea level versus Beitostølen's 900 — means you can cycle 6–8 weeks longer than the rest of Valdres.

Early spring tip: Tyres with 40 mm+ and low profile work best in April. Gravel roads dry faster than trails — stick to Hølervassrunden and the village roads. Afternoon rides are warmest, but the morning sun hits the valley from 09:00.

Late autumn strategy: September and October are underrated. Hedalen–Vassfaret in autumn colours is one of Valdres' finest experiences. Bring a windproof jacket — the temperature drops fast after 15:00 when the sun disappears behind the ridge.

Vassfaret — The Wilderness Experience by Bike

The Hedalen–Vassfaret route deserves extra attention. Vassfaret is Norway's last area with a stable bear population, and the forest roads in from Hedalen give you a wilderness feeling without having to carry a pack for three days.

The route starts at Hedalen stave church from the 11th century — one of Norway's oldest wooden churches. From there you follow old forest roads into gradually denser spruce forest. The silence is palpable. No cabin developments, no cars, no mobile coverage for the last 10 km.

What you'll encounter along the way:

• Lakes with swimming opportunities (cold but refreshing — best in July)
• Old timber roads with solid gravel surface
• Elk and roe deer are common sightings in the morning and evening
• Bear sightings are extremely rare — they know you're there long before you know about them

Practical information for the Vassfaret ride:

E-Bikes in Sør-Aurdal

All five routes work well with an e-bike. Hølervassrunden and Bagn–Reinli are easy regardless, but an e-bike makes the mountain farm routes accessible to far more people. Bjødalsrunden goes from challenging to moderate with an e-bike — suddenly you can enjoy Bjødalen without worrying about the climbs.

Charging: Limited options along the routes. Charge fully overnight. Most routes are under 40 km, so range is rarely a problem with modern e-bikes.

Season and Timing

Sør-Aurdal has the longest cycling season in Valdres. Lower elevation than Beitostølen and Vaset means the snow melts earlier and arrives later:

• April–May: The low routes (Hølervassrunden, Bagn–Reinli) are often ready as early as April. Can be wet — wider tyres recommended.
• June–August: Everything is open. Mountain farm routes are snow-free and in prime condition. July is warmest.
• September: Perhaps the best month. Autumn colours, cooler air, zero tourists. Perfect for Hedalen–Vassfaret.
• October–November: The low routes remain rideable until frost sets in. Short daylight — start early.

Weekend Plan — 2 Days in Sør-Aurdal

You don't need a week to experience Sør-Aurdal. Two days is enough — and it works particularly well from Oslo since you're there in an hour and a half.

Weekend tips: Book accommodation in the Bagn area or bring a tent — Begnadalen has lovely camping spots along the river. Remember there's no bike shop closer than Fagernes (35 km north), so bring a spare tube, pump and multitool.

Begnadalen — The Overlooked River Valley Route

Begna flows through all of Sør-Aurdal, and the valley roads along the river are among the quietest road cycling stretches in Valdres. Flat profile, barely any traffic and a constant view of the river.

Begnadalen is especially good for those who want to combine cycling with something else. Bring a fishing rod and stop at a pool. Or bring a towel — the shallow river spots warm up surprisingly quickly in June and July.

→ See all routes along Begna

Combine with the Rest of Valdres

Sør-Aurdal works well as a gateway or finish for a longer Valdres trip:

• From Oslo: Start in Bagn (shortest route), cycle here for 1–2 days, drive on to Fagernes or Beitostølen
• With Mjølkevegen: Finish Mjølkevegen towards Gol, take the bus to Bagn and cycle here before heading home
• Stave church route: Reinli stave church → Slidre valley → Lomen stave church — cultural route through Valdres
• With Etnedal: Etnedal's routes are neighbouring and accessible via Rv33 — combine for a quiet week

Accommodation

Accommodation in Sør-Aurdal is simpler than in the mountain areas — no fully-booked mountain lodges to book half a year in advance. Scandic Valdres is 35 km away if you want full service. Locally there are cabins and farm stays — check valdres.no for current listings.

The Right Cyclist for Sør-Aurdal

Sør-Aurdal isn't for everyone. If you want trail arenas, steep mountain passes and Instagram moments — go to Beitostølen. But if you want:

• Peace and quiet without driving 5 hours from Oslo
• Stave churches and cultural history along the route
• Gravel through wilderness in Vassfaret
• Routes that children can actually handle and enjoy

...then Sør-Aurdal is the place.

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Road Cycling in Sør-Aurdal — Valdres' Lowest Valley

Most people think gravel when they hear Sør-Aurdal, but the valley has something the rest of Valdres lacks: long, continuous tarmac roads with almost zero traffic, and elevation profiles to suit everything from recreational riders to hard-core training.

Three road cycling routes worth noting:

1. Bagn–Hedalen road loop — 42 km with 480 m elevation gain. Classic valley loop along the Begna river with two stave churches along the way. Gently rolling, never steeper than 5%, and you finish where you started.

2. Bagn–Begnadalen flat ride — 16 km with just 50 m elevation gain. Almost completely flat along the river. E-bike friendly, perfect for those who want tarmac without climbs. Rideable in April — the valley road dries out weeks before the gravel tracks.

3. Hedalsfjorden road loop — 22 km around Hedalsfjorden. Quiet village roads with views over the lake, some short pinches, and Hedalen stave church as a natural stop.

Road + gravel combination: Start with 16 km of tarmac along Begnadalen for a warm-up, turn onto the gravel roads towards Reinli, and finish on tarmac back to Bagn. Total approximately 35 km on mixed surfaces — a perfect half-day that gives you the best of both worlds.

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Parking and Starting Points — Before You Roll

Sør-Aurdal has no large car parks, but the five main starting points all have free parking.

Bike on the roof rack? Rv35 from Oslo via Hønefoss is the fastest route. Avoid parking along the E16 — always take the turn-off into Bagn town centre. Narrower village roads rarely have a shoulder, and drivers don't expect cyclists appearing out of nowhere.

From Oslo by public transport: Valdresekspressen stops in Bagn. Bikes allowed in the luggage compartment — check with the driver. Approximately 2.5 hours from Oslo Bus Terminal. Returns the same afternoon.

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Routes are based on data from valdres.no. Start in Bagn town centre for the easiest parking and access.

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Your First Gravel Ride — Sør-Aurdal as Your Starting Point

Sør-Aurdal is the best place in Valdres to try gravel for the first time. The combination of low elevation, gentle gradients and well-maintained forest roads means you can focus on the riding experience rather than surviving the terrain.

Typical progression: Most people who start with Bagn–Reinli forest road loop in May are riding Hedalen–Vassfaret by August. That's 16 km to 38 km in three months — natural progression without needing to force it.

What you need: A bike with wide tyres. A gravel bike is ideal, but a hybrid or hardtail MTB works excellently. A road bike with 25 mm tyres won't work — the gravel roads in Sør-Aurdal require at least 35 mm.

→ Read more about gravel for beginners

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Sør-Aurdal and Begna — Cycling with a Fishing Rod

Begna river flows through all of Sør-Aurdal, and for cyclists who also fish this is a rare combination. You can cycle along the river in the morning, fish for two hours at midday, and cycle back in the afternoon.

A practical day plan: Start in Bagn at 09:00, cycle Begna nature trail (20 km) to lunch. Stop at one of the pools south of Reinli — this is good fishing water. Two hours with a rod, packed lunch by the river, and cycle back towards Bagn. Home by 16:00. A day you'll remember.

→ Cycling and fishing in Valdres — complete guide → All routes along Begna

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See Also